Hacking And Building Projects

The projects below put on display my hacking and building abilities to be able to disassemble toys, items, products, and be able to re-wire, solder and assemble them back together again. It also displays my ability to totally transform and configure some toys into a totally different toy or gadgets altogether.

With the help of a small screwdriver, I was able to dissect and disassemble the various parts of this Motorized Toy robot by unscrewing all the 14 screws that had the different parts held together. This electronic toy robot when assembled has one key to perform automatically including walk, light and play music. With the rotating wheel at the bottom, it will avoid obstacle without being tripped.

As you can see, I decided to disassemble the toy gun to see what inside. The red and the white wires connect the circuit to the LED lights, the red wire connects the circuit to the gun trigger (A small device that releases a spring or catches and so sets off a mechanism to fire the gun) and the white wire connects the circuit to the speaker to amplify any sound the gun makes when the trigger is being pulled. And then the red wire running from the circuit into the battery pack, which turns on the toy gun itself.

3D Phone Amplifier

The above shown 3D phone amplifier as designed using the 3D Printer to use and amplify the volume of my phone audio while playing. But I converted into a storage holder for this project.

STAGE 2

FINAL PROJECT

This was a very interesting project to work on. Here, I was trying to make a robot to work alongside with a Toy gun such that when you pull the trigger of the gun, both the gun and the robot will work, and when you press the on the button of the Robot, the two toys will work simultaneously.

 

2. DIGITAL HOURGLASS

My second Hacking and Building adventure was creating a Digital Hour Glass Arduino project. It was quite an interesting process. This involved a Coding process which was a bit hard, yet it was done.

The digital hourglass coding was slightly different with the involvement of millis. Millis is the function that helps keep track of the time my Arduino has been running in milliseconds. The six LED lights that are shown in the video will run for an hour, hence the name of it. In the Arduino Project Book, it used a tilt switch that once it tilts a proper way then the lights will go on. However, I used a regular push button which allowed the lights to go on individually.

This was accomplished with the use of a Switch, LED, 10 kilolms resistors and 220 Ohm resistor.

 

3. ARDUINO LIE DETECTOR

I decided to work on this ARDUINO LIE DETECTOR project because I wanted to see and know when my friends are lying to me 😀 or to measure the different responses that your bodies skin goes through depending on the situation you are in or the emotions you are feeling. The coolest thing of all is that on a good day, one may be able to in real time see things happening through an Arduino graph like the picture below.

Components Used

  • Arduino Nano
  • Geen LED
  • Red LED
  • Orange LED
  • resistor (10k)
  • cables
  • Tape

Wiring Steps 

CODE

float range;
void setup(){
  Serial.begin(9600);
  pinMode(2, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(3, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(4, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(2, HIGH);
  delay(500);
   digitalWrite(3, HIGH);
  delay(1000);
  digitalWrite(4, HIGH);
  delay(1500);
}
void loop()
{
  range= (analogRead(A1));
  range = map(range , 0, 1023, 0, 25);
  if (analogRead(A0) > (range*2)){ //15
    digitalWrite(4, HIGH); //red
  }
  else{
    digitalWrite(4, LOW); //red
   }
  if (analogRead(A0) > 2) //4
  {
    digitalWrite(2, HIGH); //green
  }
  else{
    digitalWrite(2, LOW); //green
  }
  if (analogRead(A0) > range) //8
  {
    digitalWrite(3, HIGH); //yellow
  }
  else{
    digitalWrite(3, LOW); //yellow
  }
  int sensorValue = analogRead(A0);
  Serial.print(“sensorValue=”);
  Serial.println(sensorValue);
  Serial.print(“range=”);
  Serial.println(range);
  delay(20);
}

 

Overall, I had some challenge really being able to calibrate and synchronize lie detector/polygraph down to the nitty-gritty of it, and to get it to be very accurate and to detect at least 98% accuracy. But I will take that up as an ongoing project to make sure I try and perfect it as much as I can and get it to the best possible state sometime in the future.

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